The old coast road at Methoni
The photos here were taken in December 2008. Just as well, because in the 2009-2010 winter, the promenade was wrecked by fierce storms and the coast road is no longer navigable by vehicle in places.
To the East is the old coast road which runs close to the small concrete Pier, past the campsite and bends to the left to join the Main Methoni-Foinikounda road. There is still a track that was used to access properties by the shore but this has finally been washed away by the sea and is barely wide enough even by foot. In Summer you reach the road by crossing the dry river bed but in Winteryou need to walk round and cross the river, turning right by the Pizzeria to reach the sea. People still fish from the pier which is separate from the main part of the harbour where most boats are moored.
The Platea by the sea is one of the most popular places to meet, any time of day or evening. There is a car park between the Platea and the pier. It is also used by trucks taking fish from the fish farm close to Sapienza island. One or two fishing boats remain but far fewer than even ten years ago. After the main events are held, people often congregate at the Platea for coffee or lunch and on mild winter and spring days it makes a pleasant place to sit.
Between the Platea and the river you will see a group of Methoni's old cottages, among more modern buildings. Some are still inhabited by families of fishermen though sadly most of the smaller boats have been broken up so that larger boats can have their share of the allocated quota of the catch. One cottage facing the sea has been enlarged and turned into a modern summer restaurant with a beach-front shaded dining area. in 2000 it was still an all year round meeting place for local fishermen.
In Winter the river usually blocks pedestrian access directly from the Platea to the coast road. The sea throws up driftwood and drags pebbles to the shore. Bamboo and other debris may be washed down the river during storms. The coast road floods at times and the promenade subsides in places because there is no properly constructed sea wall and the subsoil is sandstone which is quickly eroded. The sea can be beautiful in winter but is dangerous!
The plain to the East of Methoni is between one and two kilometres wide and has traditionally been used for growing vegetable and fruit crops such as courgettes and tomatoes as well as for grazing. However, building is the booom industry in Methoni and the land closest to the sea is being developed along with the hillsides overlooking the bay. There is still wasteland by the coast road and walking there feels rural, especially as the old cottages remain, but I wonder for how much longer.
In Winter the sea-front bars and restaurants are closed, as is the camp-site, so the sea road is not busy. Each place has it's own character, not always Greek. The palms and white arches of one bar give a very different atmosphere from the neat blue and white of the taverna at the camp site and the little wooden and bamboo construction which was set up more recently further along.
One of the best places to swim is by the Campsite and although facilities are basic the atmosphere is friendly and welcoming. Along this stretch of the road is a line of tall trees, which grow quickly, are resistant to salt but often lose branches in winter storms.
After passing the campsite, the tarmaced road turns sharply to the left and the coast road narrows to a track for several hundred metres. It was still possible to drive through to the main highway until soon after these photos were taken in December 2008 but by April 2009 storms had undermined the low cliff and made the road too narrow for even small cars to navigate.
Methoni Corporation clears the beach each spring, burning or removing debris and clearing pebbles to expose fresh sand. Attempts to shore up the coast road have never been comprehensive enough to prevent damage. One interesting phenomenon is that the remains of an earlier settlement lost beneath the sea are more visible at certain times and it has taken until April 2009 for me to be able to see and photograph something of them.
Those of us who live in towns tend to take utilities for granted but sewage pipes have only recently been installed in Methoni and one runs under the coast road.
The promenade as far as the camping site has cast iron decorative lights and benches at intervals but the final stretch of the coast road has traditional lamps on wooden posts and even the main highway is not lit beyond the town boundary. One of the advantages of not having too much street lighting is that the Methoni night sky is fabulous. To walk the coast road at night is a wonderful experience for town dwellers, with the sounds of the sea, chirping crickets and miriads of stars. At full moon the coast road is light and the difference between the quality of light in Methoni and that in the middle of the UK is striking - though not surprising really.
The single-storied cottages along the coast road are roofed with traditional terracotta tiles; some newer (and redder) than others of course. Clear winter skies show these to advantage - a cheerful sight giving a sense of wellbeing.
Design features make an interesting study.
The sea is a popular design inspiration, but the subtleties of its colours are not appreciated by many who don't live close to it. At Methoni the sea can be as calm as a millpond and Mediterranian postcard blue in summer. Its colours and textures change with the time of day and the season of course and can show a multitude of textures, with colours from white, through shades of turquoise, green and blue, to grey and black. For those interested in art and design this is a real inspiration and for the rest of us a never-ending source of wonder and delight.
There are three islands in Methoni Bay. The largest is Sapienza; one of the others is Schiza which has a population of special goats and some rare ancient trees. As the coast road draws closer to meet the main highway, the landscape seems dominated by the sea and islands. There are pine trees, a few villas and some bungalows and the road ends with a steep incline, bordered by wild shrubbery, to meet the Main highway.