Greek Tavernas are traditionally places for members of the community to enjoy
meals or drinks together in an informal atmosphere. Communication was a key
function and even now, though people may have a TV at home, they will come to the
taverna and discuss news or watch sport together. Live music features less
than it used to and I've been sad that on recent trips the evenings
did not include spontaneous singing and dancing as was so often the case
on winter evenings ten years ago. However, the summer season will invariably
include live music somewhere in the area.
I am wary of photographing when restaurants are busy as it might cause unease,
so was pleased to be permitted to photograph Andreas Taverna on the upper
road in Methoni just after opening time, before guests arrived, one December evening.
The interior is traditional, with wood panelling, stonework and painted walls featuring old farming and household implements. What makes this taverna special though is that Andreas displays the work of local artists and provides a noticeboard advertising local services. When the town was smaller, this may not have been needed but the population has grown, swelled by foreign residents in summer, and it is not always so easy to locate the person with the skills you require by asking anyone on the street.
While the decor of tavernas varies, the table settings and food are mainly traditional.
This is an aspect I find comforting - it's great to travel, meet new people and admire
variations in interiors, but good to have something familiar in the experience that gives
a sense of ease and belonging.
A disposable blue and white cloth will be laid, Water will be served first, often with a basket of bread, and you may be invited to look at the choice of food on offer or be told what food is on offer, rather than just handed the menu. Salad, if ordered, will be served separately before the main meal, unless you specify that you want all to be served together.
In most tavernas and restaurants, whether in a village, town or the Capital, Athens, you will be able to eat alone in peace or make conversation - according to your choice. The Greek way is friendly but respectful of differences. No Rush, no pushiness - and very conducive to relaxation.
Note that in Greece it is not considered polite to serve meals very hot or to remove dishes from the table immediately after the meal has ended as this would indicate that you are being encouraged to leave. This is the opposite of the UK etiquete where plates are removed as soon as possible, and I've observed irritation due to this misunderstanding of culture on a number of occassions.