5.30 p.m. December 8th 1997
"Long stroll to ancient Olympia and beyond this afternoon - two hours or so. Photos galore of the trees and sky as dusk fell. The photos cannot possibly show the depth of the landscape: the height of the trees, the scale of the valleys and the panorama of the hills and mountains, nor, especially, the stillness - and the quality of the light."
I was able to re-visit Ancient Olympia in 2008. It looked so strange and bare; but the effort that had already been made towards its restoration was impressive.
New saplings had been planted on the hill, with wooden boarding to terrace the steep sides, and a watering system had beeen installed.
The burnt areas will take time to re-grow, but smaller wild plants, especially annuals, quickly sprout, as was evident on the journey from Kalamata to Methoni.
People from all over the world contributed to the cost of providing new trees, in a heartening show of support for the region.
In December 1997, with no tourists other than myself, Olympia was enchanting. Local people were surprised at this strange tourist who was trying to learn Greek from a book, but made little attempt to actually speak it. I had expected Olympia, being so famous, to be more commercialised, but as a local taxi driver explained, most tourists come on organised trips, visiting for a day, or less. There are souvenir shops and restaurants in the town, alongside the local shops.
The Museum is modern and enables us to imagine more clearly how the ancient ruins would have looked when new. I saw postcards showing Olympia in spring and I have visited since 1997 but I preferred the first visit. With only one or two other people there, I was able to wander freely and take photos somwhat different from the norm - including the lichen growing on the ancient stones, crocuses in bloom and ivy winding around the bases of columns.
The village itself is small - deliberately so, since planning permission to build has been withdrawn in order to preserve the rural atmosphere and beautiful forrested surround. I was warmly welcomed and during a 5 day stay at the local "pension" (The hotel would have been warmer but I could not afford it) I took many photos. It was cold at times, but mainly sunny, with Autumn leaves and the occasional group of flowers in sheltered places.
Now I am glad I have those photos, can remember so vividly watching the sunset through the trees and bamboos close to the ruins and the work of the quiet months - olive harvesting, sheep-herding, winter work on the restauarants, daily cleaning and simple preparations for Christmas.